Showing posts with label El Playon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label El Playon. Show all posts

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Venezuela cracks down on illegal mining - Photo essay


A photo essay on the website of Time magazine includes this dramatic image of Venezuelan soldiers arriving by helicopter at the beach at El Playón on the Rio Caura, Bolivar State, during an operation to clear out illegal miners on the Upper Caura.

The photo was taken by Venezuelan photographer Carlos Garcia Rawlins, who has worked as a freelance photographer since 2007 and is a stringer for the Reuters News agency. His photos have appeared in The New York Times, the LA Times, The Washington Post, The Wall St Journal, USA Today, Newsweek, The Guardian, Le Monde and Stern.

I was in El Playón in October 2009 when the illegal mining operation in the Río Yuruaní was in full swing. Each night, heavily laden canoes arrived with barrels of gasoline and diesel used to power the pumps in the mining camps.

Sanema Indians came in from all around the Caura to work as porters carrying heavy plastic cannisters of gasoline up the portage route from El Playón to the top of Salto Para, where they were loaded onto canoes and taken upriver to the Yuruani.

I was told by local Yekuana that the "bulla", or seam of gold, was discovered in 2006 by an indigenous group who dug up some gold nuggets.

As soon as word got out about the gold the area was invaded by illegal miners that had been kicked out of La Paragua by the army and National Guard.

At one point over 3,000 people invaded this remote fragile rainforest, stripping the tree cover with powerful hoses and washing tons of sediment and poisonous mercury into the river system in their desperation to extract every last grain of gold from the ground.

It's just tragic to see the absolute devastation and contamination left by the miners in the Caura basin, formerly one of the most pristine areas of rainforest in Venezuela.

To read more about the crackdown on illegal mining in Venezuela and see more of Garcia Rawlins' photos click here:


To read about my trip to the Rio Caura to visit the Yekuana click here:

Friday, March 14, 2008

On the Rio Caura to Para Falls - Trip Photos


The Yekuana village of Nichare seen from the river

Blessed with acidic, tannin-rich water that keeps mosquitoes to a minimum the Caura River is an eco-tourist's dream, with enough wildlife on display to keep budding David Attenboroughs glued to their handycams - and birders in raptures.

Throw in the indigenous villages of Yekuana and Sanema Indians and the largest untouched rainforest in Venezuela and you soon realize you're navigating through National Geographic country.


The tarantula that came to visit in the night

Judging from the numbers of visitors, very few people know about it. So it was a real revelation when I travelled from Las Trincheras to Para Falls, stopping at the indigenous village of Nichare to meet the Yekuana.


The sandy beach of El Playon at the base of Para Falls

Most tours start from Ciudad Bolivar and head by road to Las Trincheras where you transfer to a dugout canoe with an outboard motor for the two day trip upriver to El Playon, the base for a trek to the top of the Para Falls.


Yekuana kids selling baskets and beads at El Playon

The first night is usually in a jungle camp in hammocks, although some operators have more luxurious accomodation. On my trip we spent the second night in hammocks in the Yekuana indian village of Nichare and the third night in El Playon.

Trip Report: A fiesta on the Caura River: Yekuana, Yarake and Yellow Clay